Aging galvanized pipes become so brittle that they usually have to be broken apart to be removed and replaced. For this reason, they are usually replaced piecemeal in older homes, with the relatively intact pipes left in place. Polybutylene: Heralded as the pipe of the future when it appeared in the 1970s, polybutylene pipe was introduced as a replacement for copper lines and saw widespread use throughout the 1980s. Unfortunately, the manufacturer was forced to pay out millions of dollars after a class action lawsuit alleging the pipes were defective. Although the manufacturer never acknowledged a defect, oxidants in public water systems caused a chemical reaction with the plastic, leading it to flake, become brittle, and crack. Polybutylene was mostly used in mobile home installations, but any home constructed in the 1980s and early 1990s may have the plastic pipes somewhere. No longer manufactured or rated by US building codes, any existing polybutylene pipes should be replaced before they fail. Pipes installed underneath homes, either buried in the ground or encased in the concrete slab, are affected by the gradual movement and shifting of the house over time. If the pipes shift downwards, they can create a negative slope, or belly, that restricts the flow of water and creates pools that accumulate waste or sediment. Left unattended, pipe bellies can cause stoppages or leaks over time. Buried and out of sight, no one thinks much about their sewer line until it fails , seeping sewage into the ground or backing foul smelling wastewater up into the home.

https://www.expresssewer.com/blog/5-common-plumbing-problems-in-old-houses

These products contain sodium hydroxide which is required by the Poison Prevention Packaging Act to be sealed with child-resistant packaging. Remedy: Consumers should keep this recalled product away from children and immediately contact The Clorox Companys Liquid Plumr call center for disposal and refund instructions. Consumer Contact: The Clorox Companys Liquid Plumr call center toll-free at 855-490-0705 from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. ET Monday through Friday, or online at www.liquidplumr.com and click on Important Safety Recall Notice for more information. Description: This recall involves three Liquid Plumr clog removing products, sold in 17 ounce bottles that are about 9 inches tall. The bottles have the Liquid Plumr logo and the name of the product on the front. Liquid Plumr products included in the recall are: Liquid Plumr Industrial Strength Urgent Clear The UPC code is printed in the lower left corner on the back of the bottle. Only bottles manufactured before March 22, 2016 are included in this recall. Incidents/Injuries: The Clorox Company has received 8 reports of the child-resistant bottle caps not working as intended and 221 reports of the bottles leaking. No injuries have been reported.

https://theplumber.com/three-types-of-liquid-plumr-clog-removers-recalled-by-the-clorox-company-due-to-failure-to-meet-child-resistant-closure-requirement/

You are here: Home / How-To-Fix Videos / Bathtub Drain Stopper / Trip Waste Assembly Bathtub Drain Stopper / Trip Waste Assembly The Bathtub Drain Stopper / Trip Waste Assembly is found in countless bathrooms across the country and its basically a fool proof way of filling your bathtub when taking a bath. Right? Well maybe Prior to this modern method of keeping your bath water in the tub, many homes use to have Standing Waste & Overflow a Gordontheplumber.com Eola IL 60519 tall cylindrical barrel standing next to the tub with an interior plunger which allowed you to stop the water so you could bathe. Drop the plunger down and it stopped the water, lift it up and the water would drain. They were eventually phased out (although thousands are still in service today) because they simply are no longer code compliant in most municipalities across the country. Enter the modern Trip Waste Assembly a simple device which can easily be operated by a flick of a lever located in the bathtubs overflow. Flick it up and the water stops, flick it down and the water drains. Generally trouble free but as time goes by hair, soap scum and variety of mysterious childrens toys make their way into the drain and interfere with plunger causing it to hang up or not operate at all. In addition the linkage that connects the plunger to the trip lever up top gets loose or completely disconnected. When this happens some minor (or major) adjustments will be required by removing the overflow plate / trip lever assembly and exploring exactly what the issue could be. The overflow is also the access through which you would run an electric snake in the event of a complete tub blockage.

http://www.bobsplumbingvideos.com/in-this-bathtub-drain-stopper-trip-waste-assembly-tutorial-i-demonstrate-how-the-entire-assembly-functions-and-what-to-look-out-for-when-removing-the-overflow-trip-lever-plate/

Feedspot! What is Feedspot, well that was my response so I head over to FeedSpot.Com to see what theyre all about! So FeedSpot is basically an RSS feed that keeps track of whats going on in your industry. FeedSpot allows you to pull industry related articles into one central location so you can stay current within your industry. So rather than searching the internet looking for all this information, they feed that information directly to you. Pretty Cool! They look at industry related blogs, websites, etc, rates them in terms of content, how often they post new content and how they show up in the search engines. Thats the best way this blue collar guy can explain it. If you want more information on exactly what FeedSpot is I suggest you head over to FeedSpot.Com . Needless to say, I was pleasantly surprised to be included in the Top Plumbing Blogs and even more shocked to hold the #3 spot. Incredible!

http://www.bobsplumbingvideos.com/top-plumbing-blogs/

Otherwise you'll have to make a new pattern. Push both sides together and square them as a unit by shifting them until the diagonal measurements are equal (Photo 16). The frames are fairly pliable, and it's easy to do if you have a partner to anchor the corner opposite the one you're pushing against. To panel each gate, begin with 16 boards cut with a 45-degree angle at one end (Photo 17).Once you scribe and nail the boards, the frames will be rigid and you can simply fill the panels by scribing and cutting the rest of the boards. Use the assemblies to measure and cut the frame for the other side of the gate, remembering to overlap the ends in the opposite direction. Screw the parts together with 2-in.deck screws. Predrill when driving screws near board ends. Note: You can download Figure B and enlarge it in Additional Information below Space the gates 1/2 in. apart on the ground and screw two 8-ft.

https://www.familyhandyman.com/garden-structures/fences/construct-a-custom-fence-and-gate/view-all/

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